Zagreb in Ink and Coffee: A Feminist Café Chronicle

Our journey begins at this iconic square, dominated by the grand statue of King Tomislav, Croatia’s first king. This bustling gateway to Zagreb’s Lower Town sets the scene for the tour — a place where history meets everyday city life, and where Zagorka’s story begins to unfold.

A charming green oasis in the city, Strossmayer Square is named after the famous bishop and patron of Croatian culture, Josip Juraj Strossmayer. His residence was a cultural hub even in Zagorka’s time, a place where artists, writers, and thinkers mingled — the perfect backdrop to discuss Zagreb’s vibrant intellectual scene.

Standing outside the historic Kavana Zagreb near Zrinjevac Park, we explore its significance as a center of literary and social life. Though we remain outdoors, this café’s legacy as a meeting place for writers and revolutionaries, including Zagorka’s circle, comes alive through stories shared on the spot.

Named after the first president of Czechoslovakia, Masarykova Street is a bustling artery of the Lower Town. Here, the rhythm of daily Zagreb life pulses through shops, theatres, and cafés — the very environment that inspired Zagorka’s vivid portrayals of urban society.

At the site of the former editorial office of Obzor newspaper — where Marija Jurić Zagorka worked as a journalist — we reflect on her pioneering role in Croatian media and the power of the press in shaping social change. The stories told here resonate with the spirit of a woman who used her pen to challenge norms.

Varšavska Street marks the transition from the hustle of the Lower Town to the quieter residential quarters. This area reflects the social contrasts of Zagreb in Zagorka’s era — a backdrop for many stories of ordinary people, their struggles, and aspirations.
It was here that the headquarters of Ženski list were located, founded and edited by Marija Jurić Zagorka from 1925 to 1938. Through this pioneering publication, Zagorka gave voice to women’s issues, education, and rights in a time when such topics were rarely discussed publicly.

Café Corso was a beloved institution, known for its elegant atmosphere and as a rendezvous for the city’s progressive thinkers. Located at the corner of Ilica and Gundulićeva Street, it was a place where ideas flowed as freely as coffee. Marija Jurić Zagorka was among its frequent guests, joining writers and journalists in spirited conversation. Here, we delve into the café culture that brewed not only beverages, but bold visions of change, equality, and expression.

Near the former site of Velika Kavana (Grand Café), we pause in quiet reflection on the stories and lives that once filled this legendary place. Though the café itself no longer stands, its spirit lingers here — a reminder of Zagreb’s rich cultural past and the voices that shaped it. This spot offers a poignant finale to our journey through the city, seen through the eyes of its first female journalist, honoring the timeless power of storytelling, resilience, and community.

Optional Finale: Liqueur Tasting at House of Spirits
As an optional conclusion to the tour, guests are invited to enjoy a guided liqueur tasting at House of Spirits, a boutique distillery near the city center. In the spirit of Zagreb’s café culture and Zagorka’s richly woven stories, this tasting offers a sensory experience of traditional Croatian liqueurs — from herbal to fruit-infused blends. It’s a relaxed, flavorful way to toast to strong women, bold words, and a city full of character.